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Archive for November, 2011

Tanzania Trip Report, Day 11: Ngorongoro Crater

Thursday, November 24th, 2011

We were up at 6:30 and at breakfast at 7:30. In general, I preferred the food at the Springlands Hotel to the High View Hotel. At the High View they tended to stay away from Tanzanian food and tried to serve more Western-style food, which is to say it was not very good.

Mohammed picked us up at 8 and then we left for Ngorongoro Crater. The drive to the gate was quick, but then you had to take a slow, winding road down into the crater. It was really foggy as we were driving down so I was worried we wouldn’t be able to see anything, but it cleared up by the time we reached the bottom. Ngorongoro Crater doesn’t have giraffes, but it has pretty much every other animal you’d want to see. And as opposed to the jungles of Lake Manyara, the crater is mostly wide, grassy plains, which made it really easy to spot animals. And boy were there a lot of them. (I somehow whittled 200 pictures down to 43.)

Besides zebras, wildebeest, and flamino, we finally saw some lions, which were another one of the Big Five we could cross off the list.

But one of my absolute favorite animals I saw on the entire trip was a massive old elephant at the crater. Our guide estimated by the length of his tusks that he was around 50 years old, and he visibly dwarfed the other elephants. There was something so prehistoric about seeing this huge animal just walking around slowly in the middle of a grassy plain; I think it’s probably as close as I will ever get to seeing a dinosaur.

With another safari jeep for scale. Notice that the safari jeep is actually closer than the elephant:

As all the guides drive around the park, they stay in radio contact with each other and let each other know when they’ve spotted a particularly interesting or rare animal. As we were driving around, Mohammed’s radio crackled to life, and after exchanging a few words, he changed directions and informed us that a pair of cheetahs had been spotted. Cheetahs are apparently very rare in the crater, so I was really excited. As we pulled to a stop behind a few other jeeps, we spotted two cheetahs way in the distance to the left of the road.

They were exhibiting the same slinky, stalking behavior that you’ve probably seen house cats do, so they were clearly hunting. As I followed their line of sight, I saw a small herd of gazelle on the right side of the road. This was awesome enough, but as we watched them over the next hour, they came closer and closer and finally actually crossed the road right in front of our safari car. At some point, the herd noticed them and bolted, so the pair gave up the hunt. They sat around for a bit before crossing the road again and wandering off. It was one of the most amazing things I’d ever seen.

We were also lucky enough to see some black rhino, albeit extremely far away. Even at 200mm on my crop-sensor 20D, they ended up rhino-shaped blobs. We ended up seeing 4 or 5 of them throughout, and seeing as the entire park’s population is about 25, we did pretty well.

As we were heading out of the park, we happened upon a lioness sleeping by the side of the road. Mohammed stopped the jeep right in front of her; she was probably 5 feet away from us (with a strong safari door inbetween, of course) and seemed totally unconcerned that we were there. Mohammed eventually started revving the jeep’s engine to wake her up, and Amanda and I feebly tried to suggest that it might not be the greatest idea to antagonize the lion. But all she did was lift her head for a bit, yawn, and fall back asleep.

After an incredible day, we headed back to the hotel and relaxed for the rest of the night.

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Tanzania Trip Report, Day 10: Lake Manyara

Wednesday, November 23rd, 2011

We got up and packed and put most of our gear in storage for our safari. At breakfast we met a Canadian brother and sister who were due to leave for the Machame Route the next day, and I have to say I felt a weird sort of jealousy towards them since I knew they were about to embark on such an amazing experience. But I was also really excited for our safari because, as you all know, I lurrrve animals.

Eventually we met up with our guide, Mohammed, and we were off. His English was good in the vocabulary sense, but he had quite a strong accent, so we couldn’t always understand him. It turned out he was also fluent in Spanish, and we both found his Spanish easier to understand than his English. We drove for a while and at our first lunch stop, we ran into an Australian couple, Damien and Annie, that had returned from the Marangu Route the day before, so we chatted with them for a while. It turned out they were in the middle of a 5-month (!!) traveling stint. Man, those Aussies have it figured out.

Finally, we made it to Lake Manyara and ended up seeing tons of animals – elephants, blue monkeys, velvet monkeys, baboons, dik-diks, impalas, giraffes, hippos, and lots of birds.

(I actually have tons more photos than this, but I was trying really hard to self-edit, so if any of you want to see more, I’d be happy to show you.)

The safari car was pretty cool — the roof lifted completely up, and we just stood in the back of the jeep and had a 360-degree view of the jungle around us, which made it really easy to get pictures of all the animals. I used both my 5D and my 20D – I had the 24-70 on the 5D and the 70-200 on the 20D which gave me really good coverage.

We saw a warthog family:

The park was very jungly, much more so than I was expecting, (I think I had a very movie-like idea of what a safari would be like) so it was hard to see the animals at times, but they generally had very little fear of people.

At one point, an elephant walked right by our car, which was cool and a little scary. You can also see the baby elephant nearby.

Mohammed was very knowledgeable, but generally pretty weird. He brought up sex a lot, and I think it was in a well-intentioned/informative manner, but it made us sort of uncomfortable. He told us, for example, that in Africa you have to give cows as a dowry, and that white women are worth 10 cows, but African women only get 7 or 8. Amanda got the uncomfortable/nervous giggles and asked him how many cows a Chinese woman would get, but he didn’t answer.

After we were done touring Lake Manyara, we headed to the High View Hotel, which is also owned by Zara, and would be our home base for the 3-day safari. Given that it was the low season, the hotel was very empty; I think at most 4 or 5 rooms were occupied at any point while we were there. But it was nicer than the Springlands in terms of amenities, so that was nice after the trek. After we settled into our room I was feeling a little lonely/homesick, so we decided to ask Damien and Annie if they wanted to have pre-dinner drinks. We headed to the pool bar and I had a Coke while everyone else had a Kilimanjaro beer. We chatted for a long time and learned that their experience with their guide wasn’t nearly as good as ours, so I guess we just got lucky. I did learn, though, that the Marangu Route is actually really nice — they have huts with beds, and even showers, albeit cold ones.

After drinks we had a nice dinner (I ordered lamb), and we headed back to the room for a good night’s sleep.

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Tanzania Trip Report, Day 9 (Trek Day 7): Descent

Tuesday, November 22nd, 2011

Altitude: 3100m – 1980m

(Apologies for the very long hiatus!)

After an emotional day, the next morning was very routine. I think by this day they had run out of eggs, because breakfast was just porridge and the pancakes. The descent was relatively short and easy, and I actually took the time to enjoy our surroundings. We were well into the rainforest at this point and we were surrounded by greenery, trees, and flowers. At one point Filbert stopped us and pointed through the trees at our last glimpse of the peak:

In no time, we were at Mweka Gate, which would be our exit. We had to sign out, and this is where you put your highest point reached, and they give you your summit certificates. It was a little disheartening to see that everyone who had signed out before us in the day had reached the summit; I was hoping we’d see at least one other person who didn’t make it. We waited around a bit at the gate, and there was a brief debacle about not having brought enough trash down the mountain (there’s some weird system of weighing your stuff when you come in and out), so a few of the porters had to go back up the trail to collect some trash. When they got back we snapped a few pictures with them, and Richard, Filbert, Amanda and I were driven back to the Springlands.

When we arrived we had to tell all the staff that we hadn’t made it to the summit, but most of them had a very ‘hakuna matata’ attitude about it, which was nice. We sat down with Richard and Filbert and worked out tips (we ended up giving $120 to Richard, $90 to Filbert, $70 to the cook, and $60 to each porter.) I got Richard and Filbert’s email addresses because if/when I climb Kili again, I’d really like to go with them. Richard was nice enough to give us Zara certificates even though we didn’t summit. We finally got back to our room and took a final Bad Hair Picture, which I think may be the worst pictures ever taken of me. It’s pretty amazing.

After a beautiful hot shower, we sat by the pool and read some more Little Stranger. Around that time, another group came back from the trek, and most of them had summitted, so the staff had a little ceremony where they sang songs and handed out the summit certificates.

At lunch, we met a really nice Canadian police officer named Brenda, who had just finished the Shira route. We later learned that Brenda’s late husband’s ashes were scattered at the peak of Kili by her Godmother, so it was an extremely emotional moment for her to summit. She said she burst into tears when she finally made it. I didn’t think it so strange at the time, but looking back on it, it’s amazing how doing something like climbing Kilimanjaro can really bring people together to the point that she would share something so personal with complete strangers like us. (As an aside, she laughed at me when I asked if police officers in Canada carry guns. Apparently it’s a strange question.)

We were also sitting next to an older Swedish gentleman who turned out to be Mr. Zara himself, i.e. co-owner of Zara tours. It turns out he’s summitted Kili 6 times! He was also full of crazy stories, so it was fun to chat with him. We ended up sitting with him again at dinner and briefly his wife, the other co-owner. I talked up Richard to her, so hopefully she’ll remember how well he treated us.

Before dinner we had our safari briefing, and when we were headed back to our rooms, we saw Brenda sitting and waiting for her airport ride, so we sat and kept her company. I regret not getting her contact info, but I do remember her saying she’d also like to do Machu Picchu like I would, so maybe we’ll meet again someday.

That night we finally finished The Little Stranger, which had a really stupid ending. Do not recommend.

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